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Workmanship Check in Garments
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Workmanship Check in Garments

08.05.2020

Many companies require an inspection of their products at various stages of the manufacturing process. This is done to ensure an acceptable product is produced for the customer. V-Trust's professional inspectors have extensive experience in garment inspection. We provide inspection services for products at different stages, including pre-shipment inspection, during production inspection, container loading inspection, and more.

The most common type of garment inspection is the workmanship check, or appearance inspection. A majority of this type of check is performed by factory workers, using only their eyes, often with minimal to no aid from equipment.

Garment Workmanship Checklist

Workmanship check typically includes:

  • Checking for foreign particles on food packages
  • Checking for stains on cloth and furniture
  • Checking for flaws on metal/resin components
  • Inspection for defects, such as chipping or burrs, generated during resin/rubber molding processes
  • Inspection for defects in unlit LEDs

Visual inspection is simple and less technologically advanced compared to other methods. Despite this, it still has several advantages over more high-tech methods. It is also one of the easiest and most reliable inspection techniques to perform.

Workmanship Check Procedures

According to the degree of attention to different parts of clothing when people meet or observe, the garments are divided into the A area, the B area, C area.

  • The A area is the area near the head region, which is usually the neckline and the shoulder.
  • The B area is the visible part, except for the head area
  • The C area is generally difficult to observe, such as the inside of a garment, the hem, the sleeve, or the inner outside area of the trousers.

For garment visual inspections, the same type of defects in different parts of clothing, determine that the types of defects will actually be different. For example, the color yarn (less than 5mm) on shirt, if on collar (A area), determine as major defect, if in the chest or back area (B area), determine as minor defect, if in bottom position (C area), determine as minor defect, if on the inside (C area), it may not be determined as defect.

The garment should be placed on a flat level surface, and all packaging materials, as well as components, should be opened (buttons, snaps, zippers, etc)

The visual evaluation should be performed at arm’s length (30 inches or 76 centimeters maximum), considering the end user’s position about visible defects.

Garment Inspection Checklist

The overall quality of the product is checked at first (product presentation, cleanliness, symmetry, etc.), then the sewing quality is checked.

For the first part of the inspection, the customer’s requirements, approval or reference samples, product specifications, color standards, and pictures are essential to inspect each product for conformity. The more information the customer provides about the product and packaging, the more successful the inspection will be.

1. General appearance - the inspection engineer normally checks if products have the same style, size, material, design, pattern, and color as specified. He/she checks for dirt, oil stains, and foreign matter, as well as examines if there’s a similar appearance and symmetry between any components that make up a set.

2. Workmanship - The inner and outer surfaces of the product are checked for manufacturing attributes such as seam, stitches, threads, embroidery, printing, pressing, etc. The same procedure is performed on attachments and accessories to the primary product.

3. Color – The product will be checked for color, color shading, discoloration, color transfer, and surface texture/finish differences within a product, the bulk products against the approval/reference sample, and between products of the same style/color. The same procedure is also performed on attachments and accessories to the bulk product.

4. Touch & feel – The inspection engineer in this part checks if the fabric and other materials have the same feel or “hand” as the approval or reference samples.

5. Attachments & accessories – The quantity, size, style, design, color, and method of attachment, alignment, basic function & strength of attachment with normal force are checked in this part. Normal force is a force applied onto the inspection sample or its components, by means of modeling the actual strength in a real-use scenario, to check the toughness or strength of the sample. The force ranges from 5 to 7 pounds and is akin to the strength to pull the tab of a pop-top can.

6. Labeling, printing & marking – Here, the inspector checks if the correct labels/hangtags are present in the specified locations and are attached in the specified manner. All labels found on the product will be recorded. Labels normally cover the following:

  • Care instruction (see Care Label Check in Garment Inspections)
  • RN/WPL number
  • Country of origin
  • Fiber content
  • Size
  • Style & trademark
  • Barcode, UPC code, retail price, etc.

7. Permanent label verification process – without using any tool or solvent, and under a prerequisite of not damaging the label itself or the product is not damaged, the label shall not be removed. As an illustration, when the inspector attempts to remove the paper label from the surface of the product, under the three circumstances: it can’t be removed, it is torn into pieces, or it damages the surface of the product in the process, the label will be considered a permanent one.

The inspector does the appearance check against the above-mentioned definition only if the customer mentions that one label shall be a “permanent label” during the inspection, and the label must be stably attached to the product via observation. The declared permanent affixation manner might be from printing, embossing, stitching or permanent sticking, etc. Usually, putting on the surface, inserting, or clipping will not be permanent affixation methods. Hangtag and removed label stickers are not regarded as permanent labels. No specific testing is performed for the permanent label validation.

What to Pay Attention to When Checking Garment

Leather garments - attention to the thickness of the leather, any tears, large pores, mildew, etc.

Heavy knit garments – the hem must be flat

Lined dress, suit, and jacket – the lining mustn’t be exposed

Fusible interlining - must be flat, and pulp must not penetrate to the outside

High density, thin fiber knit wear – attention to evenness, pulling yarn

Hanged garment – proper measures should be taken to prevent a press mark

Jeans pants – there should be no twist on the side seam

Suit and dress – the collar and sleeve shape should be smooth, and fit the body

Poly bag size – should not be too big or too small

Products fixed with metallic fittings – attention to the rusty stain, oxidized stain on the surface

Most Common Defects in Garment Inspection

Shipping packaging

 

-    Bumped/bulgy cartons

-    Damaged/crushed/deformed shipping carton

-    Empty space in shipping cartons or inner carton

-    Unusual smell

-    Poor workmanship of wooden pallet, such as wrong structure,
     too thin/narrow/wooden slat, cracked, wooden slat, loosen
     nail connection, etc.

-    Weak corrugated cardboard

-    Unstable pallet stacking or goods stacking on a pallet

-    Sealing and fastening material and method cannot meet the client’s
     requirements

-    Wrong connection method of carton construction – glue or staple

-    Mildew or mold on a wooden pallet or shipping carton

-    Sharp objects, such as knives, blades, scissors, and exposed nails, inside
     any shipping carton

-    Wrong assortment/packing

-    Wet shipping carton

Selling packaging

 

-    Foreign material (trimmed thread end, foreign fiber, dust, etc) floating
     on the unit surface of the outside or inside of the garment

-    Hanger cannot hold the garment

-    Hangtag hidden inside garment, or barcode invisible from poly bag

-    Label/tags turned upside down

-    Loose packaging, oversized poly bag

-    Poor presentation of the garment

-    Garment folding not as specified or packed with wrinkles/unwanted
     folds/crease marks, etc

-    No air hole in the poly bag

-    Poly bag thickness less than 0.038mm (for garments exported to
     EU and USA)

-    Exposed nails or staples point on the box.

-    Broken/damaged hanger, wrong/missing hanger

-    Damage/damp unit box/poly bag

-    Foreign substances such as mildew, blood, hair, insect, worm, etc

-    Hanger/clip press mark

-    Incorrect size, color packed in one set

-    Incorrect size/style no., color printed on unit box/poly bag

-    Unusual smell/odor

Marking/label/print on packing/product

 

-    No warning clause/marking on poly bag

-    Missing/wrong tracking label for USA children's garments

-    Some information does not obey the law or religious beliefs of the
     export country/area

-    Wrong label sticker

-    Wrong/missing shipping mark information

-    Chinese letters on the package

-    Insecure sewing label

-    Misplacement of hangtag/labeling/marking

-    Missing/detached hangtag/labeling

-    Poor printing of the barcode

-    Illegible print

-    Wrinkle/air bubble/scratch on label

Appearance and workmanship

 

-    Use of monofilament sewing thread that will hurt the customer’s skin

-    Any sharp point/edge on accessories

-    Loose stud/button/rivet or trim on baby products (under 36 months)

-    Needle detected

-    Mildew, insects, blood  mark

-    Loop stitches, open seam

-    Unusual smell/odor

Material

 

-    Color shading difference within the same products with gray scale 4 (or below)

-    Holes

-    Reverse the face and the bottom side of the fabric

-    Asymmetric

-    Torn leather

-    Poor printing

-    Water spot

-    Crease mark

-    Neps/pills on surface

-    Coarse/fine yarn

-    Float/fly yarn

-    Snagging yarn

-    Pull out the loop

-    Mending mark

-    Abrasion mark on the leather

-    Scratch/burn/paint/cut mark

-    Mismatched stripes/prints

-    Uneven washing effect

-    Pilling/hairy on garment surface

-    Zip/button mark made by improper pressing

Sewing

 

-    Broken/skipped stitches

-    Seam slippage

-    Open seam

-    Snarled stitches

-    Run-off stitches

-    Loose/tight stitches

-    Blind stitching visible

-    Under stitches exposed

-    Insufficient seam allowance  - major if over 3/8”

-    Uneven seam allowance – major if over 3/8”

-    Line of needle hole

-    Pucker at seam

-    Pleat

Assembling

 

-    Asymmetric parts

-    Uneven sleeve length/short-long sleeve length

-    Uneven leg/short-long leg

-    Uneven stuffing

-    Pocket flat not centered over pocket

-    High-low placket

-    Inclined belt loops

-    Fusing bubble at interlining

-    Incomplete adhesion interlining

-    Missing interlining

-    Fusing crease at interlining

Accessories

 

-    Malfunctioned accessories (zipper, Velcro, snap, stopper, buckle, etc)

-    Button setting inside out

-    Bigger/smaller buttonhole

-    The button and button hole are not aligned because of a bulge

-    Insecure shoulder pad attached

-    Non-alignment of button placement

-    Improper button position

-    Improper placement of accessories (Velcro, snap, embroidery,
     applique, etc)

-    Broken embroidery

-    Poor stitch quality of embroidery

-    Rusted metal accessory

-    Accessory easily pulled off

-    Missing/detached/insecure/damaged/ragged accessories

-    Paint peels off on the eyelet

-    Gat at zipper end/top – major if over ½.”

Cleanness

 

-    Dirt/oil/glue/water-stained mark

-    Untrimmed raw edge

-    Untrimmed thread ends at the garment– major if length over
     5cm (for infant garment)

-    Stuffing fibers coming through the seam

Why Do Garments Need Quality Inspection Procedures

The reason is that a well-trained inspector can detect most signs of damage.

Breaking down the elements of the inspection process gives three basic elements:

  1. Knowing what to look for
  2. Knowing how to look for something
  3. Deciding without bias.

Unfortunately, a visual check has limitations if conducted by factory workers only. The quality of visual inspection depends both on the use of appropriate standards and the expertise of the visual inspector. The better trained and more experienced the inspector is, the more reliable their inspection results will be and the more units they will inspect per shift.

Besides adherence to the inspection instructions and briefings before each inspection, inspectors should also be experts in the product being inspected. This ensures that they are able to work as efficiently as possible.

V-Trust engineers, when conducting quality checks on garments, are fully trained to perform workmanship checks according to the client’s requirements and market regulations. V-Trust has a solid history in helping overseas importers ensure their garments will be shipped in accordance with their quality standards and in compliance with the markets’ regulations.

For more information concerning quality control service and regulations, please feel free to contact us at info@v-trust.com

Recommended:

Care Label Check in Garment

Care Label Check in Garment Inspections

It is not very uncommon for us in the quality control industry to come across situations that importers (mostly inexperienced) do not fully understand cross-border regulations on care labels and their importance to consumers’ satisfaction with the product they are buying.

 
Common Defects in Garment

Most Common Defects in Garments

As the demand for inspections in the garment & textile industry has increased dramatically within sourcing destinations such as India, Vietnam, and Malaysia, our inspectors on the ground have had the opportunity to generate quality statistics from the most common garment defects that have been found while inspecting at garment suppliers in these countries.

 

Photo of Joao
Joao
Account Manager of V-Trust
B.S. degree in Computer Engineering at West Virginia University
5-year experience in QC industry
Fluent in Portuguese, English, Spanish, Mandarin
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